Fridge is not cooling – Step By Step Instructions
Fridge is not cooling – 9212766866 – Delhi- Gurgaon – Noida – Faridabad – Ghaziabad.
When a Fridge is not cooling Fridge is not cooling, don’t just let it sit there, fix it ASAP. Fridge that is not cooling is not only a health hazard but is also a fire hazard. Components on the Fridge may stop working and cause excess heat to build up and ultimately cause electrical sparks and other problems. Therefore, when a cooling fails in a Fridge, it’s a sign that there are serious problems and they need to be resolved quickly. Below are a few ways you can check and repair potential hazards when a Fridge does not cool properly.
Initial surroundings inspection when Fridge is not cooling
This may sound stupid but the first thing you should check when a non-cooling Fridge, is whether it’s plugged in or not. At times, the power plug can become loose if you accidentally bump the Fridge hard enough. Another thing to check is for blown fuses or tripped circuit breaker. Testing the power outlet for proper current is another important thing to check. Other things to look out for is damage to the electrical chord.
Your first step to check when Fridge is not cooling
After the initial inspection, when a Fridge is not cooling, we can move on to the Fridge unit itself. Fist thing to check on the main unit will be the temperature settings. A Fridge is not cooling because it does not get its cool air from its freezer section by having the evaporator fan circulate cold air over the freezer coils and transferring that cold air into the main refrigeration unit. You can turn the knob inside the Fridge to a lower setting to resolve your fridge not cooling issue but by lowering the temp, it actually opens up the vents wider from the freezer to the Fridge. Optimal temperature setting for a Fridge operating normally would be around 38 degrees for the fridge and 0 to 5 degrees for the freezer. To test the temperature inside of a Fridge, you can sit a cup of water with a thermometer in it inside the fridge and freezer for 2 hours and watch for any temperature changes.
Your second step to check when Fridge is not cooling
he next thing to check on a Fridge that is not cooling, are the rear-mounted and floor level condenser coils. Since dust and debris can accumulate on the condenser coils while it’s dissipating heat, your Fridge is not cooling properly. Collection of dust and debris can be a serious problem as it may result in the overheating of the compressor. Hence when a Fridge that’s is not cooling properly, checking the condenser coils is a very important step.
Before checking the condenser coils on a Fridge that is not cooling, you’ll have to unplug it from the outlets to avoid any electrical shocks. After you’ve unplugged the fridge, brush and vacuum the coils. If there is distinct build up of debris on the coils, please use warm soapy water to aid the cleaning process when wiping down the debris from the vacuum coils. Also be aware to not drip cleaning water all over other Fridge components.
Compressor relay is the next item on our checklist on a Fridge that is not cooling. The compressor relay is used to engage the compressor of the Fridge but if it’s damaged, the compressor will not cycle on. To get to the compressor relay in the Fridge that is not cooling, just look in the terminal box near the rear bottom of the Fridge. Remove the compressor relay by pulling it out of the terminal box as it’s connected via slip on connectors. Make sure to clean any debris or corrosion you find on the connectors. Next, we’ll need to test the compressor relay with the multi-tester in the Fridge. Again, set the tester to setting X1 and insert to probes into terminals labeled “M” and “S” on the relay and ohms should appear to be zero. Now, with flip the relay with the probes still in and the reading should now be infinity. Next, switched the relay back and take out only the probe in terminal M and place it on terminal L instead. The reading this time should be zero and if you flip the relay, the result should change to infinity. Take the probe from terminal S and put it in terminal M while still touching terminal L and run the test over again. If the relay fails any of these 3 tests, the relay will have to be replaced when the Fridge is not cooling.
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source–that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box–before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
It’s stopped completely
It’s not cool
Cooling is poor
The freezer compartment is icing up
The food in the refrigerator freezes
There’s water dripping inside the refrigerator
The refrigerator never cycles off
The ice maker has a problem
There’s an ice- or water-dispensing problem
It’s stopped completely
First, check to see if the light comes on or if there is any fan, motor, or other sound coming from the appliance? If so, the refrigerator isn’t really completely stopped–go to the specific problem you are having. If not, try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. If that doesn’t work, read on.
Second, check to see if there is power getting to the refrigerator. To do that, plug a lamp or other device into the same outlet the refrigerator is plugged into. If there’s no power, check the fuses or circuit breakers. If the fuses or breakers aren’t the problem, contact a qualified electrician to restore power to the outlet.
If there is power to the appliance but it still seems to be stopped, there may be a problem in one or more of these:
Overload and/or relay
Unfortunately, we can’t describe all of the possible problems and repair solutions here. If you are unable to troubleshoot the problem from here, you may need to contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
It’s not cool
If the refrigerator isn’t cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It’s stopped completely.”
Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It’s on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
The overload, relay, or capacitor
The defrost timer
The condenser fan motor
Cooling is poor
For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can’t see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can’t draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here’s an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost “manually.” When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
The defrost timer
The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
The defrost heater. To determine if the defrost heater is burned out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page.
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Noise can come from these areas:
The inside of the freezer
The outside back of the refrigerator
The bottom of the refrigerator
The inside of the freezer
Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:
If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.
If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer.
If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up